Christmas Day 4

And the Pepper Pot- close up- trying to identify the animal parts.

After we had eaten the main course, then the fruit cake and pumpkin pie (all home made) there was an elaborate charades/quiz/word game to be played, which got noisier and for some, more and more competitive with each round. (Our team came joint first!)

So Christmas Day ended with good food, silly games, friendship and a sense of making the best of what we have.
And as I had Skyped with my family too- it had been a good day.

Christmas Day 3

We did recover ourselves- with tea or something stronger according to taste.
A number of volunteers have previously worked in orphanages, either here in Guyana or in other developing countries.

Gradually the Christmas mood took hold, and the shared "Pot Luck" meal was enjoyed.
Each dish sort of complemented the others in a strange but tasty way. The Star Performer, as far as Guyanese tradition goes, was the Pepper Pot, a flexible simmered meat stew, prepared with assorted meats according to the buying/acquiring power of the cook. Interestingly, our offering included some of the cheaper cuts recommended- cow's cheek, ox tail, cow heel: I found the pepper sauce or gravy nicely savoury and tasty, but as there was so much tempting food on the table, I had to pass on the quivering piece of meat flesh on my plate!

Shared Christmas Day meal

Christmas Day 2

Our next appointment took us to a nearby orphanage.
As reported in previous postings, there is a significant proportion of orphans and vulnerable children in Guyana's under 18 population:- UNICEF surveys estimate about 11%.

While the orphanage was well run, with dedicated staff who commit to their work, for 39 years in the case of the matron, the low staff numbers mean that children lack the individual attention necessary for emotional development.
The children were all well fed and clothed.  There were plenty of toys and play facilities. The staff were pleasant and patient with the children.
As recommended, we brought a selection of picture books and simple readers,  but the children were far too excited and full of sugar to settle to listen, so we played group singing games, then went into the garden area.

A couple of us were allowed to visit the nursery where the babies and toddlers were being bathed, one at a time, and then settled for afternoon naps in rows of cots.
It was here that the realisation dawned that each child has no significant adult in their lives to give them the unconditional love and affection of a parent. I had to go to a quiet corridor to recover myself.

I can understand why travellers and those who work abroad in poorer countries sometimes return home with an adopted orphaned child.

Talking through, rationalising, theorising and resolving one's own actions are needed- otherwise anyone could be easily overwhelmed by the enormity of such problems.
Our return back to our apartments was much quieter than the journey out.

Christmas Day

"Tradition" is what you make for yourself.
Doing something because "we always do this" can become empty.
And making the best of whatever you have is, in itself, a fine tradition.

Happily, for families anywhere around the world, if there is access to some sort of internet link or decent phone connection, loved ones can be reached on Christmas Day and the unsettling yearning for contact is satisfied.

And so, on a bright and sunny Christmas morning, this was my first mission for the day:- my daughters Rosie and Clare, sister Denise and brother Paul all wished a Merry Christmas!

Then, it was back to making the best of the day.
Bearing the fruits of kind donations from back home in the UK and here in Guyana, a number of volunteers set off, some by taxi, others on bicycles, to our appointments at the rest home for the elderly and the children's orphanage.
Both the staff and residents at the home greeted us and after exchanging conversations in small groups, the matron led the carol singing and we all joined in lustily. There were no expressions of self pity, rather gratitude for having a roof over one's head and a single room. Our visit ended with a reminder that all the residents had grown up under British rule and sung "God Save The Queen" as children, but now we would proudly sing "Dear Land of Guyana" together.

The generosity of donations allowed us to buy gifts for the staff, and have a surplus of packages:- most have since been taken to another home for elderly residents; one was given to a member of staff, as a gesture of sympathy when we learned she had returned home the previous night to find her home burgled.

Ho Ho Ho 5

And finally- Santa Claus- and Mrs Claus.

Merry Christmas everyone!

Ho Ho Ho 4

The Christmas school bag- with a message!

Ho Ho Ho 3

Christmas Parties

A number of VSO volunteers attached to government ministries are thereby invited to join the annual Christmas party. The pattern appears to be:- a tent is erected within the grounds of the office place, or a large venue hired; individual meals are pre-ordered,  official guests line a top table and open proceedings with prayers and speeches, karaoke is booked, later the bar opens and finally the dance floor is occupied. A dress code of "elegantly casual" is ordered, interpreted by the younger women to mean dressing in the manner of film/pop culture. ( The working dress code for Georgetown is very formal and smart)

Parties for children abound:- run by schools, church groups, charities and the like.
I was invited to one at a special school, hosted Radio's Needy Children's Fund. As a third of the country's population live in the Georgetown area, (population 250,000) the party made TV news and a camera crew was there to film. Everybody sand along to We Wish You a Merry Christmas and other well known favourites. Miss Guyana Universe spoke words of encouragement. The proceedings were blessed by a young pastor. Santa and Mrs Claus sweated in their red and white fur costumes. A teacher and pupils performed a silly dance routine. Each child received a boxed game and a school bag. The headteacher, on behalf of the staff and pupils, received a fridge freezer for the school kitchen. Everyone was happy with what they were given.

Pupils are captivated by performances at the party.

Ho Ho Ho 2

My work in Guyana takes me into the special schools, but my office base is within the Ministry of Education at the National Centre for Educational Resource Development (NCERD).
The SEN Unit was suitably decorated this year in a Calypso theme.
And on the last day, one of the parent helpers, here for the necessary hanging of clean office curtains and general sprucing up, set the mood beautifully.

Ho Ho Ho 2

Food plays an important role in defining any occasion. Garlic pork, pepper pot and dark fruit cake laced with rum are traditional Christmas day foods. Exchanging gifts doesn't happen- a lack of money sees to that- but packages of food items are exchanged between work colleagues and neighbours. We have been given slices of fruit cake and a bottle of home made spicy drink called Buko. We have taken bowls with pepper and tomato sauce and a chunk of banana cake to our neighbours.
In the past few days the limited number of supermarkets have been packed, the spending frenzy similar to the UK tradition. The open street markets, with the same displays of seasonal fruits, vegetables and limited non- perishable items are where the majority of people will shop. Here some dried fruits and nuts and expensive packaged western style processed foods are indicators of Christmas. The fresh meat stalls are crowded and business is brisk.
Decorations- far fewer than in the UK- are familiar enough:- they are`all made in China. By day they look dull in the brilliant sunshine under a cl;ear blue sky, but at night the festive lights are cheering and pretty to see.

As the grumbling controversy about the election results dies away, a main concern for many has been the Song and Jingle Competition- a TV talent contest judged by a panel of experts, with the viewers' votes deciding the results. Sounds familiar?  Brandon Harding won the English speaking element last Friday, while the Bollywood segment final takes place on the 30th. Each winner receives a Toyota IST car. The two strand competition reflects the African/Indian divide in Guyanese society.

Ho Ho Ho

"And so this is Christmas, and what have you done?" wrote John Lennon, reputedly as a reaction to the "I'm Dreaming of a White Christmas" sentiments.

Christmas songs have the capacity to be both profound, evoking strong memories and emotions, to be silly, sentimental, annoying and loved.
Georgetown seems to favour the Jonny Mathis "When a Child is Born", modern beat carols, the latest Soca and Chtuney offerings and a comedy number, now 30 years old according to U-Tube, which I have never heard before, which has lodged into the brain on auto-repeat:
"Grandma got run over by reindeer,
While walking home from our house Christmas Eve.
Some people say there's no such thing as Santa,
But as for me and Grandpa, we believe."
Catchy stuff!

In a country where many people actively practise their religious beliefs, I have been frequently asked why England is so secular?  While the Hindu and Muslim populations will not celebrate on Christmas Day, for Christians there are churches of many many denominations and national roots, of varying sizes and splendour or simplicity on every block in Georgetown and across the country villages. Spirituality is something people want to get into discussion about, even if they say " I don't celebrate Christmas."  Without the distractions and demands of the rituals of home:- the cards, the gifts, the buying, the calendared events- there is time for conversation and contemplation.

The requirement to clean and renew- rather like our Spring Clean regime- is maintained, and complained about by young and old alike. Memories of waking on Christmas morning to a home smelling of new wax polish and the Christmas cooking are recalled, while the burdens of actually cleaning, beating the rugs, taking down and washing curtains are all put off, or blatantly avoided by the younger adults still living at home.

Christmas cleaning- ouch!

Cricket- still the number 1 sport here.

On a Sunday afternoon, as I took the 40 minute walk to the swimming pool, I passed 4 "official" cricket matches, played on prepared pitches, with teams wearing recognisable strips, a hatted umpire and supporters around the club house and spectator stand. I also passed 7 mini-games: some with proper bats and the cork ball; others with a home-made piece of wood ; all using a rigid, one-piece stumps and bails wicket. Any spare ground will do: an empty plot of land on the corner of a street, a field where goats are grazing or an almost empty Sunday street.

This picture shows the street I live on. Each Sunday afternoon (except for the rare rainy day) about 20 men will gather for a noisy, friendly game of street cricket. The waiting batsmen are to the left of the camera, sitting on a wall. Fielders are scattered behind and over the crossroads.
On other days this road has constant traffic, but Sundays in Georgetown are like the Sundays I remember in the 1960s:- all the shops are closed, people stay at home, or visit relatives, go to their places of worship and play cricket!

And what about the women?- No where to be seen!
Nationally, women's cricket is gaining prominence, but continues to lack the status of the men's game.

The results of the Guyana General Election, held 28.11.2011

Today the new President of Guyana was sworn in with minimal pomp and fuss. Donald Ramotar, the candidate of the incumbent's party, the PPP/C will take control of the National Assembly with a minority government and 32/65 seats. Two opposition parties, who may or may not work in alliance, hold the remaining seats, the APNU with 28 and the AFC 5.
The PPP/C, which has held power for the last 19 years, traditionally attracts support from the Indo Guyanese communities, and has also given much assistance to the Amerindian communities in the remote regions.
The APNU, with successes in the Georgetown and Berbice and the inland region 10, had made a bid to voters of all races, but did include the main leaders of the former PNC (Afro Guyanese supported party)which had controlled Guyana amid controversy in the 1970s and 80s.

The counting of the votes (total cast 346,717, representing a 72.9% turnout), in a system which includes direct representation and a proportional top-up, took from Monday evening until Thursday afternoon when the results were announced.
The intervening period was tense in and around Georgetown, as the focus of opposition to the ruling PPP/C and support for the APNU alternative was here. The campaigning month had been marred by a few violent disruptions to party rallies, but apart from some challenges of unfair practices (unfounded), a few skirmishes and one large APNU motorcade which was stopped and dispersed by the army, there have been few reports of trouble.
After the results were given the leaders of each party made appeals for calm and an acceptance of the new situation. It will be interesting to follow the new appointments and divisions of responsibilities and powers as the National Assembly takes shape. There is a mood for change and optimism for a new beginning.

The VSO office here has exercised the cautious approach throughout voting day and the post election week. Because of the minor upheavals in a few parts of town, we have been advised to stay indoors- and now we all have cabin fever, very clean flats and up-to-date work notes.

Donald Ramotar

New Amsterdam 5

I had been feeling particularly homesick when I set off for New Amsterdam.

But spending time with these lovely children and their Mum was quite sobering and gave me food for thought.

New Amsterdam 4

A garden plot under cultivation- and a traditional style wooden house.

New Amsterdam 3

This photograph shows a typical rural house of the older style- made from wood, with the corrugated tin roof, on stilts with the space below the closed in first floor used as an open living area.

In the foreground is a small drainage ditch. All Guyana's coastal regions have drainage systems as the land is flat and low lying.

New Amsterdam 2

For a volunteer one advantage of living and working in a smaller town, with outlying village settlements, rather than the much larger capital, is that you quickly become a familiar face and can begin to develop a network of friendships among the Guyanese population.
On Friday evening I was welcomed at the Ladies Fitness Class, which took place at the back of the church hall, beyond the rows of table tennis games.
On Saturday I was included in the invitation to eat with a family living in Friendship village. I followed Shelley's guidance on convention. We took some food "for later", pencils, colouring books and soft drinks for our host, a single working parent helped with childcare arrangements by her 74 year old mother, who is bringing up her five lovely children in a small 2 bedroom house.

After eating, playing card games and practising Christmas carols, we walked to the Back Dam,  a back canal, played on the bridge, wandered by some tethered calves, passed country gardens and finally onto the ball field next to Friendship school where boys were playing cricket and a small herd of goats were chewing at the shrubs. There the children were happy to cast off their footwear and race around the field for entertainment. We carried with us a large bottle of water by way of refreshment.

The children pose on the bridge.

New Amsterdam

New Amsterdam is a small, sleepy market town. As well as plenty of election posters, and a party rally in the main street on the Friday evening (which we avoided, as instructed), preparations for Christmas were underway. Fairy lights and quantities of sparkly red and green materials were in evidence, plus the Guyanese choice of decorations for the festive season- brightly coloured silk flowers.

Inside the market hall- New Amsterdam

Taxi! 2

New Amsterdam is south east- not south west- of Georgetown. (Edit from previous posting!)

New Amsterdam is on the east bank of the Berbice River, one of the main rivers in the country, giving its name to one of the three main provinces.
Until 2008, the coastal road crossed the Berbice via a ferry service. The process of waiting, loading, crossing, unloading and moving off took hours, enabling New Amsterdam and Rosignol on the west bank to earn income from trading with the passing and captive traffic. Both small towns are now much quieter, and probably poorer, but the Berbice Bridge - the 6th largest floating bridge in the world- has made the journey much quicker.

Like the Demerara Bridge outside Georgetown, this bridge has a retractable section across the shipping lane, which is operated each day at high tide to allow passage for ocean going vessels.

The Demerara Bridge- retracted- photo taken from the old stelling (landing) in New Amsterdam

Taxi!

Last Friday, I set off for New Amsterdam, a small market town about 100 km south west of Georgetown. The journey takes the coastal road, one of the few paved roads in Guyana, which continues to the border with Suriname. I went to stay with Shelley, a fellow VSO teacher, to exchange work ideas and future plans and to enjoy "liming" in New Amsterdam.
The pace of life, the greater openness of people and the delight in simple pleasures gave me a hint of the country living that some Guyanese Georgetown residents speak fondly of when reminiscing of childhood days:- playing out at night under a full moon; dancing in the torrential rain; bathing naked in the canals and creeks: all beyond the experiences of this urban creature.

In the words of the worn out "Strictly Come Dancing" cliché- its the journey that counts.
The journey- while not the highlight- had its interests.
A`shared taxi, safer and only slightly dearer than the regular mini-  bus service- was the chosen mode for travel. Limits on passenger numbers apply to paying adults only. My return journey reminded me of family days out in the 1960's, with two nursing mothers and their babies, one father and a toddler crammed into the back of an average saloon vehicle. I obeyed the driver's instruction and sat in the front seat.
While in town taxi drivers are chatty, but once on the main highway, the serious business of driving at over 100kph along the two lane road takes over. Bob Marley was the entertainment on the CD system on Friday and as the man sitting to my left was a grade A student of Mr Marley's lyrics, I enjoyed  trio-phonic listening for the duration of the journey.

In addition to anticipating Police radar traps, the driver would slow down for:- the occasional animal on the road- lumbering cows, trotting goats, lean dogs and puzzled hens; farm tractors and horse drawn carts; minibuses collecting and dropping off passengers and squads of brightly uniformed school children.
Villages string along the road in quick succession, their names revealing Guyana's past. Good Hope and Success suggest settlements of newly emancipated slaves or indentured labourers. Places like Onverwagt were originally Dutch, Essex, Buxton and Bath were English, Strathspey was Scottish and Non Pareil (which I continue to mistranslate as "without umbrella"), French. I cannot account for Bachelors Adventure or Lovely Lass.
Adjacent to the bridge over a small river is the rusting skeleton of an old railway bridge, one of the few remainders of the small railway network abandoned, scrapped and sold off in the 1970s.

The surrounding countryside is not intensively cultivated, but there are plantations of coconuts and sugar cane and rice fields. Near a rice processing factory were burning mountains of spent rice husks, and workers raking the wet processed rice on the roadside to dry, before shovelling it into bags.

The P word

Tomorrow the people of Guyana go to the polls to elect a new National Assembly and a new President of Guyana.
As volunteers we have all been trying to follow events from a safe distance, adhering to VSO policy of non-involvement in the politics of the host country. Also, as there has been a past history of election fraud and post election violence, although the two most recent elections were completed peacefully, we are to "lie low" for the next week, with our homes stocked up with goods.  (As we would for Christmas at home, forgetting that in the UK, all basic items can be bought 364 days of the year.)

The People's Progressive Party (PPP/C) has won every election since it took power from the People's National Congress (PNC) in 1992. The PPP President, Bharrat Jagdeo, who has served two terms of office must now, under the rules of the constitution, stand down.
A wish for change is freely expressed by taxi drivers, colleagues at work, and anyone who feels they can bend your ear- opinions all met with a non- committal "interesting".
46% of voters are young- between the ages of 18 and 35.
The Starbroek News today talks of no party winning an overall majority.

Any party standing must be able to field candidates for over 50% of the available seats, thus effectively ruling out small minority groups. A third of a party's candidates must be women.

Traditionally the PPP/C took the vote of the Indo-Guyanese community and the old PNC, the Afro-Guyanese. But politicians have been "crossing the floor" of the assembly and this year the ruling PPP/C - slogan "Working Together for a Better Tomorrow"- faces a new contender.
 A Party  for National Unity-APNU-with a leadership drawn from the PNC, the PPP/C, the Workers' Party Alliance (WPA) , the Guyana Action Party (GAP) and the National Front Alliance (NFA) and the slogan "A Good Life for All Guyanese" makes the direct appeal across all ethnic groups.
The third party, the Alliance for Change (AFC), formed in 2001- slogan "Unlocking Guyana's Future", and logo, a key- is lead by three politicians formerly from the PPP/C, the PNC and the WPA. It also draws support from different ethnic groups and has become a main opposition party.

Scanning the manifesto materials from each of the parties on the Caribbean Elections website reveals very little policy detail other than broad sweeping promises and some key capital projects:- a road to Brazil, a deep water Harbour on the Demerara, solar and water power, maintaining Guyana's environmental status and developing the ICT infrastructure.
Since the election was announced the Guyana papers have reported charges and counter charges of wrong doings and failures levelled by rivals from all the main parties, while letters from ordinary people raising questions about poverty, pensions, housing, education health, jobs, street cleaning and rubbish collections, water and power, crime and violence indicate what people. These issues are reflected in debates on the TV.

The fact that each party has a simple logo- the PPP/C has a cup, APNU has the palm of the hand and the AFC, a key- is a reminder that some voters will be unable to read names on the ballot paper.

25 National Assembly members will be directly elected representatives for their region, based on population numbers.  The other 40 members will come from the top up list, and seats will be allocated proportionate to the share of the national vote.
The new Assembly will then elect the President and Prime Minister.

Tomorrow has been declared a public holiday.

Lending a hand

In between discussing the future of our polluted planet, the potential for economic collapse across Europe, Italy post media-tycoon Berlusconi, Guyana beating Trinidad in some pre pre pre qualifier for the next football World Cup and the end of the mango season, there is a constant awareness of poverty all too close, and what any individual can do to "lend a hand."

(This is also a helpful counterbalance when homesickness unexpectedly strikes. There has to be a time for tears, a retreat to a wash room, a sense of loneliness and a questioning of purpose- and then the time for moving on.)

It is a topic frequently discussed, but each volunteer makes a personal decision, reconciling conscience, compassion and sheer practicality. My own resolutions- which will probably change again- are currently: to buy an item of fruit and give if stopped by someone begging in the market; to buy additional stocks of dry foods and basic toiletries to drop off with specific people who are linked with families through the Food for the Poor charity; to support the activities in the special schools I visit by buying raffle tickets, craft products, donating consumerables, sponsoring places on school visits and treats; and to carry change for collections and cake sales outside shops.

The Christmas season is upon is Guyana, and Santa's bell can now be heard ringing outside many shops as the Salvation Army makes its Christmas Collection.

Supporting good causes also generates a social life. In recent weeks, along with other volunteers I have been to a Dance and BBQ (sadly with no dancing- just the food, drinking and chat) in aid of a Rest Home, a fashion show to support Help and Shelter and  a March and BBQ organised by the Disabled Persons' Network, in a small town outside Georgetown, to raise funds and awareness of issues faced by people with disabilities.

Help and Shelter, set up in 1994, supports resolving problems caused by domestic violence. Their own research, supported by the University of Guyana, indicates that at least one in three women in Guyana have experienced actual violence in the home. Their client base runs to 8,000, 85% women and 80% of all clients spouses. (For more information visit www.hands.org.gy)  The fashion event was a showcase for local designers and tailors from Georgetown, and the styles and trends represented the ethnic mix that is Guyana. Highly patterned and jewelled  Indian sari-type fabrics draped from shoulders were followed by boldly printed African styled dresses and two pieces set off by elaborately tied head-wear. Fitted figure hugging bodices and flamenco frills from thigh to ankle suggested Brazilian carnival, while bright boldly clashing colours and modern shapes showed the Soca -Caribbean influences. Some models were trained professionals; other men, women and all the children were related to volunteers from the Shelter, and happy to represent the normal spectrum of heights and widths -from "T'in to T'ick to extra T'ick" as the MC announced, with a call for each person to be proud and happy with themselves as they are. (The spirit of Gok) Facts and figures about domestic violence, the numbers of people Help and Shelter have supported and a couple of brave personal stories were a sobering reminder of why we were all there.

Friday was the 11th day of the 11th month- and for a couple of weeks I had been seeing poppies pinned to shirts- mostly the shirts of school children. The Legion of Guyana, aided by government grants and funds from the Canadian Royal Legion, continues to actively support ageing veterans from this "Commonwealth" country, which was, until 1966, a part of the British empire and still under British governance. Sunday the 13th sees the annual parade to the cenotaph in the centre of Georgetown with the Legion, the Scouts, the Police and other groups in attendance. But as local newspapers acknowledge, there is dwindling interest in this day and what it represents for the modern independent Guyana.

Pupils at this school heard about Remembrance day, and about Guyana's links with armed forces in Canada, the USA and the UK- reflecting the three main destinations of the many Guyanese who continue to leave the country in search of work.

Work- but not as I knew it

I have now been working for approximately ten weeks.
From my old work pattern of classroom, small group and individual teaching I have moved to training and mentoring with some office based duties. To date I have recorded twenty training, observation and one to one mentoring sessions with headteachers and teachers, principally but not wholly from the Special Educational Needs (SEN) sector. I have been well supported in this change in role by other volunteers, not only working in education but also in health and the volunteering sector, as placements typically involve developing capacity through  sharing and developing people's skills, knowledge and practices.

Training days- "Workshops" as they are called here- reflect the routines and rhythms of everyday work. An 8.30 am start will mean the first people will be arriving at 8.30. Delays will be caused by transport problems, sorting out children and schooling, sudden heavy rainfall etc etc.
The opening period is for chat and catching up, as establishing and maintaining good conversational relationships is key to working together. This will take an unspecified length of time.
 The extent of opening formalities will reflect the status of the meeting but anything with a national profile will require the relevant government minister, other dignitaries  and a television camera to record the event for the evening news. The national pledge may be stated, or a prayer offered.
The training agenda can then begin, with two key elements to be negotiated:- mid-morning snack and lunch. I can now appreciate the importance of the food and drink, as I recognise the toll that the heat and humidity takes, and I welcome the arrival of the pastry savouries, the sponge cakes and the chilled fruit drinks at 10 am, along with the fried chicken or fish, cook-up rice and side salad a few hours later.

Guyana is a talking culture.There is a natural feel for rhetoric. Participation, debate, role playing are all relished in workshop sessions. Ice Breakers, Energizers and the like really do get people talking and energized.

This photo indicates another aspect of some training sessions. In order to buy materials for future "Craft" lessons, the special schools sell items made by pupils. Adjacent to the policy documents and examples of teaching materials from "low tech" resources, there may be a display table of needlework, art and wood work products.

For Eric- 2

Later, on a walk- we interrupted a vulture which had flown down onto the road to inspect a dead rat.

The bird retired to a nearby tree, then took off with a slow powerful beat of its wings.

For Eric- thanks for the binoculars!

When I visited the Maruca area, the unspoilt, undeveloped landscape meant that wildlife was easier to see. It was principally a matter of settling somewhere and sitting still for long enough.

Those of us living in Georgetown know we cannot take out our cameras in public- we would immediately be a target.
However, when in the remote, poorer regions, theft of personal high tech. equipment seems unheard of.
Luckily, Tessa, placed in Region 1- the remote northern region- in an Amerindian village, has a high specification camera and was able to take some great pictures.

A yellow billed toucan- in the tree outside Tessa's front door

Orphanages

Last Saturday, invited by a fellow VSO volunteer, attached to the Ministry of Youth, Culture and Sport (fun and games), I went along to help at an Activity Day held at the Ministry's sport's ground. The guests were 150 children with an age range from toddlers to late teens, the majority in the 7-17 grouping, all from two of the town's orphanages.
I arrived in time to help distribute lunches, prepared from scratch (all catering here is prepared from fresh ingredients) by a small army of women in the kitchen behind the bar. The children tucked into fried chicken, cook- up rice and chow mein, served in individual styrofoam containers.
During the day  the organisers, helped by a number of older pupils on the President's Young Volunteers scheme ( a sort of Duke of Edinburgh/Community Service award) from some of the prestigious Georgetown high schools supervised  a cricket match, tug of war, races and a dance competition.

I did recognise and talk with some of the children as I have seen them in classrooms in the special schools I go into.

An impromptu Tug of War- the podium for the dance contest is in the foreground.

Seeing such a crowd of children, all orphans and vulnerable young people, prompted me to find out more. I had previously been made aware of pupils coming to school from a "shelter" or a "home", but my experience on this day moved me to ask and find out more.

Internet research gave some facts- but also a lack of the sorts of lists and registry we would expect in the UK. One charity website listed 26 orphanages for Guyana, each name indicating support from one of the country's main religions: Christian denominations, Hindu and Muslim; as well as international charities- the Red Cross and Leonard Cheshire homes for example. 

There was no such list from a government website, although it is clear the government have been working with UNICEF, the World Bank and others to meet needs of an estimated 30,000 orphans out of an under 18's population of 269,000- about 11% of all children. 

The reasons for this state of affairs are sadly all too familiar: poverty, HIV and AIDS (Guyana has the second highest incidence in the Caribbean after Haiti), violence, alcohol and other drug abuse, and internal and external migration of adults seeking work (there are more Guyanese in the cities of Toronto and New York combined than there are in Guyana).

Guyana's government has in place an active HIV and AIDS prevention and de-stigmatising programme. The government is working to regularise operating standards within homes, to support families and communities' capacities to look after orphans and vulnerable children.

And in answer to my question to myself- What to do?- I have consciously changed my assumptions of pupils' experiences out of school (which were very UK based), and tried to adjust how I approach both pupils and teachers when in the classroom.

Among my VSO friends, we have talked about our shared experiences in this area, and as one of our number already works with the Red Cross orphanage, we have already made initial enquiries about offering our services during the Christmas period, particularly on Christmas Day. 

Watch this blog for up dates- and information on how we - and may be you?- may help.

Gardeners' World- the fruit garden-part 5

This tree is not in our garden, but a neighbouring one.
Coconuts trees are everywhere.
And so are coconut vendors. You can buy a fresh coconut from a street stall, where the vendor, equipped with a machete, will either cut off a small piece at the top, and give you a straw to drink the fresh liquid, or will cut up the coconut to take home.

Gardeners' World- the fruit garden-part 4

Here is another fruit I had never heard of before coming to Guyana.

The sapadilla looks like a round version of a kiwi fruit. After cutting the fruit in half, you find a soft brown flesh, which is gritty and tastes of honey, and is scooped out using a teaspoon. It has a couple of elongated smallish black stones. I think it tastes lovely.
We are currently "in" the sapadilla season.

Gardeners' World- the fruit garden-part 3

Similarly, the banana tree is sheltering its crop beneath the shade of its big leaves.

In England we only ever see the larger bananas-which I understand all derive from one original plant.
In Guyana, I have seen a number of varieties on sale: small fruits, with each banana the length of a finger- and bunches looking like "hands", named as Custard bananas, Apple bananas, Pineapple bananas; and some larger varieties too.

Bananas in Guyana are always ripe when you buy, and last only a day or two before becoming over-ripe, soft and black skinned. They are beautifully sweet to eat.

Gardeners' World- the fruit garden-part 2

To eat a ripe mango straight from the tree is truly a treat, and best done among friends, as it is impossible to remove the juicy flesh from the skin and the stone in any sort of tidy way.

These mangoes are ripening. Occasionally one will turn yellow, indicating it is ready to pick. The mango tree is huge- growing as high as the two storey house. Our landlady- being of advanced years- employs a gardener, who will be able to harvest the ripened mangoes from the higher branches.

Gardeners' World- the fruit garden

Yesterday, after three days of dark clouds and rain- heralding the start of the rainy season, Saturday dawned with a return to warm sunshine and blue skies.
Responding to this, my circle of VSO volunteer friends and I became very English and talked about the weather! We appreciated the brightness, the opportunity to dry laundry and importantly for this posting, I took more notice of the delights of the garden I share with the other tenants here.

Enjoying fruits in season, picked when fresh, is one of life's pleasures in Guyana. In the markets there is always an abundance of fruit for sale, mostly local, but with imported produce too.
If any acquaintance at work has fruit trees in their garden, ripened fruits are brought in by the bagful to share and enjoy. So far mangoes and gnips have been office treats.

The following photographs will give a virtual tour of the fruit trees in our garden.

A gnip- for Nichola Budd

Gnips- (any botanist may be able to supply the Latin name?) grow in clusters. The fruit is small- about the size of a golf ball, and the skin is pierced by running the thumb nail around the circumference and squeezing out the soft flesh within. Actually, there is only a small surface of soft peach coloured smooth flesh to eat, surrounding a very large stone, which you spit out into a conveniently placed bin! The gnip season is now almost finished.

The land of many rivers part 5

As we went to Maruca on the Friday, we saw school pupils on their way home at the end of the day.
Across Guyana, each school has a distinct and formal school uniform. The government provides for one uniform, per child per school year, for free. There is also a free "hot meal" programme- to encourage attendance.

In this region, the way to travel to and from school is by boat.

Here, the school "bus" has become lodged on the sandy bank, due to pilot error. Children wade in to the river to help out.
Once free, the boat loads up and is on its way.

At the same landing, two boys paddled up in the family dug out boat, to collect their "auntie" from school. One boy is using his paddle to try and scoop water out of the boat, while the other was busy trying to retrieve his collection of plastic bottle lids. Their aunt was not impressed.
Every family along the river seemed to own one of these traditional boats. They would be used to take a passenger from home to a "stop" to pick up the speedboat.

The land of many rivers part 4

In one weekend, only superficial impressions can be gained.
The village has one tarmac road, leading from the landing straight through and out into the countryside.
All other "roads" and paths were red clay, some with wooden raised walkways for the rainy season.
Along the single road there were small open shops and stalls, plus a few bars or "Rum" shops, populated by males only.
The shops had a fair selection of vegetables, but little fruit, a limited range of dry goods, drinks and household items.
Everything was a little more expensive than Georgetown, because of the cost of transporting.

There was little evidence of paid work, other than basic services.
Many younger men work away in the mines; Guyana has gold and silver reserves: older men draw a pension. The majority of children grow up with their mother, and possibly other women in the extended family.

The village had an electricity supply, from its own generator, for set hours each day.

Water supplies came from outdoor taps near to homes. Rainwater is collected and channelled into tanks.
Water is brought into the home by buckets, and boiled then filtered if used for drinking and food preparation.

At Tessa's we collected our water each morning and were careful about usage and recycling "grey" water.

This was one of the experiences which made us thoughtful and grateful for home comforts.

The land of many rivers part 3

As we reached the mouth of the river, the boat swung out into the Atlantic ocean, which happily was quite calm.
The coastline was densely forested and low lying.

Suddenly, without warning, we again turned starboard and entered a narrow river inlet surrounded by mangroves, with the tall trees towering over creating a cave-like impression.

On this part of the river, the roar of the boat's outboard engine seemed to echo in the quiet of the forest.

As the mangroves thinned out, giving way to savannah, we saw occasional single homes and landings, among grasslands, coconut trees and shrubs.

Finally, we arrived at the village of Maruca in the Kumaka district.

We were met by Tessa, another VSO volunteer,working in the schools in this area.
As Tessa's flatmate was away for the weekend- and she has a hammock strung across her living area, there was sleeping accommodation for us in her flat in the teachers' quarters.

Here we spent an extremely quiet and peaceful weekend, buying food to cook (no fridge for storage), lolling in hammocks, reading and gossiping and strolling around the village.

The land of many rivers part 2

The journey continued.

Settlement on the Pomeroon- with the washing drying along the landing.

We travelled in speed boats similar to this one. Boats leave when they are full.
People's shopping and goods for market or wedged in under the seats.

This part of the journey, totalling about one and a half hours, fell into three distinct parts.

Firstly the boat called at various landings, some serving small settlements, others belonging to individual properties, as it made its way down the wide Pomeroon estuary.

The land of many rivers

The majority of the Guyanese people live in the capital Georgetown and its immediate outlying villages.

Last weekend fellow VSO volunteer Carol and I left the capital and made our way to one of the less populated areas in the north. 

In this area, one of the original tribes of Guyana, the Arawak amerindians live.

The region is remote, sparsely populated, has little infrastructure and is much poorer than Georgetown.

As we journeyed away from the capital, the signs of bustling life decreased and the scenery became rural.

We passes coconut plantations and rice fields.

After leaving the bus in Parika, we then  boarded the first ferry to cross the estuary of the Essiquibo river. Here the wide river is dotted with small islands, and it took our speed boat 25 minutes to make the crossing.

The sky was cloudy, the river choppy and as the small boat bounced along we had to cover ourselves with the tarpaulins provided.

Glamour had long been abandoned - as the second photograph testifies.

Charity- small port on the Pomeroon river- passengers disembarking from a speed boat.
On the left, a lorry loads up with coconuts to take to Georgetown.
From here, people rely on the boats to deliver goods.

First boat crossing-the woman sitting next to me is covering her 6 month old son to keep him dry!

We arrived at Supernaam, where the next challenge was to negotiate a shared taxi to take us to Charity, one hour's drive away.

(The names of the settlements reflect the history of Guyana's colonial occupations and hopes after emancipation)

As intrepid explorers of the world will know, when such arrangements operate, travellers have to trust to instinct. After being passed like parcels between a total of three taxis, we reached our next staging, where we were to meet Troy, the boatman, who had reserved our places on the boat to Maruca.

Cooking roti

Roti is cooked on a flat pan- like a griddle-or girdle-or skillet.
The base is lightly oiled- cooking is quick.

Cecilia turns the roti-by hand. Note the pressure cooker on the hob-  great for cooking pulses.

As the Roti is cooked it is folded into a triangle, then lifted on to a clean cloth to cool

More roti

Several types of roti- resting and awaiting final cooking

The process continues.

The dough is gathered into a cone- it will the be rolled into a ball to rest

Roti- the Guyanese speciality

Cooking traditions across the world, based on peasant or working class cultures, always have favourite comfort foods based on cheap, easily available items which are transformed through complicated procedures into something delicious, satisfying and filling. Roti is the Guyanese manifestation.

The main ingredient is flour- plain flour with a raising agent. Water is then added, maybe some mashed potato, the some seasoning. Then oil is worked in and with careful rolling, shaping, resting, then reshaping the roti is ready for cooking.

Lots of practice seems to be the key to the successful roti.

After rolling out the fliur based pancake, it is dotted with oil, cut from  the centre to the edge  (along the radius) then rolled around this radius to form a cone.

Roti- the Guyanese speciality

Cooking traditions across the world, based on peasant or working class cultures, always have favourite comfort foods based on cheap, easily available items which are transformed through complicated procedures into something delicious, satisfying and filling. Roti is the Guyanese manifestation.

The main ingredient is flour- plain flour with a raising agent. Water is then added, maybe some mashed potato, the some seasoning. Then oil is worked in and with careful rolling, shaping, resting, then reshaping the roti is ready for cooking.

Lots of practice seems to be the key to the successful roti.

After rolling out the fliur based pancake, it is dotted with oil, cut from  the centre to the edge  (along the radius) then rolled around this radius to form a cone.

Food, glorious food.

Given that Georgetown has an abundance of fresh fruits, vegetables, staple dry produce, fresh fish, chicken, meat and eggs;
and that because the heat and high humidity puts a strain on the body system;
going without water-but also going without food for any period of time is just not an option.

All the volunteers have experienced regular craving s not just for salt, but also sugary snacks, presumably to replace minerals that are sweated out.

For most people in Georgetown, and certainly for the walking or cycling VSO volunteers, shopping features in the daily routine.

street market- Borda

Fresh fruit and vegetables are best bought at one of the several street and covered markets around the town. Large  fruits are sold individually, for example pineapples and melons. Everything else is sold by the pound, with items weighed on old style balance scales. Eggs are sold by weight in multiples of four, in little plastic bags, requiring careful carrying. During this week I have bought onions, garlic, ginger, potato, sweet potato, carrots (imported), tomatoes, aubergines, sweet peppers, pumpkin and fresh thyme seasoning. Fruit is a favourite offering to take when going to someone else's to eat- for example last Friday guests at a volunteer's leaving party were asked to bring fruit for the rum punch! Recently I have bought bananas-  small, so that a "hand" really is the size of a hand,- pineapple, mango, sapadilla, gnips, and some (imported) grapes.

I have not tackled the meat and fish counters. Fresh chicken really is fresh- the hens and cockerels may be caged underneath the counter awaiting a customer. Meat and fish have been killed, but are in an unprocessed state, and are prepared for your kitchen after you have purchased. I made the decision when I arrived to eat vegetarian at home, but order meat and fish when out.

While dry goods, cleaning materials and the like are also on sale in the markets, there are several supermarket chains operating and offering surprisingly extensive ranges. Nigel's- my nearest supermarket- also offers a Customer Loyalty Card scheme- seems almost worth it for the card alone!.
Georgetown supermarkets are small, densely packed and employ many staff. Someone will open the door for you. Another will take and store any shopping from other places. There are plenty of floor staff who will take you to the exact place if you ask for a particular item. When you get to the check out, your basket items are placed onto the conveyor belt for you and as you take your turn to pay, someone else will pack the shopping into your bags. Finally, the exit door is swung open and as you leave, you realise you  have said "Good afternoon" and exchanged pleasantries with may be half a dozen people you don't know in addition to any friends you bumped into- Georgetown being a very small place.
Bulk dried goods:- rice, beans, lentils, flour-are packed into simple plastic bags of various sizes with paper stick on labels. Among the unfamiliar labels of processed foods and goods there are a few recognisable ones, provoking those Peter Kay moments, when you see Hellmann's mayonnaise, Cadbury's chocolate and Lever Brothers laundry products. Great quantities of  custard powder, waiting to be made into a milk based dessert, in a country with no dairy cows, serve as a relic of Guyana's colonial past.

To sample some true Guyanese cooking, VSO volunteers are offered a "Curry and Roti" session with Cecilia, who also rents properties to VSO.
One Sunday afternoon, I was one of four who had the privilege of watching while Cecilia prepared beef and potato curry, rice and beans cook up and four types of roti. After paying for the ingredients and her time, we could then take away the meal and eat it.

In Cecilia's kitchen- with the finished curry and roti.

The meal was delicious- and we all had a "carry out" to take away for the next day.