Some hours later, we returned to our apartment to eat and rest, planning to go out to a bar later.
Once the sun set the tradition for fireworks continued in earnest.
We had been told that this year 200 containers of fireworks had been imported into Paramaribo in readiness for the new year. From about 6pm onwards, the explosions, principally firecrackers and bangers, never stopped. The air became foggy, the smell of gunpowder everywhere. From every garden, along every street and back lane came the sounds of fireworks.
Arrangements were changed, drinks and crisps bought from the convenience store opposite, and the night was spent by Tessa, out in the garden watching, and by me, hiding in the apartment.
We drank a New Year toast (local time) at 8pm for the Netherlands, 9pm for England and Midnight for Suriname. By 1pm we had collapsed into some sort of sleep.
The fireworks continued- 200 containers' worth of stock to get through!
Saturday 7 January 2012
New Year in Paramaribo 9
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| Tessa-sporting her free T shirt, hat and bag- collected during the street party. |
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| A couple join the dancing- on the roadway you can see the left over papers- like flower petals- from the fore crackers. |
New Year in Paramaribo 6
Old Year's Day.
To let in the New Year- four times- for the Netherlands, the UK, Suriname and Guyana- was one purpose of our trip.
The official celebrations begin at mid-day. Shops and businesses are closed. There is an "estafette" or competition for the longest ribbon of firecrackers, held in the town centre.
This is to "shoot out" the old year.
After the fire crackers, the day time street party begins.
Paramaribo is packed with local people and visitors. Street vendors sell beer, soft drinks and snacks.
The local Chamber of Commerce sponsors party buses, one with a band and singers on board, the second with dancers of all ages. Shops and businesses are invited to donate to the costs. In return, the parade will pause outside the premises, and promotional goods are thrown from the buses into the crowd.
The music is a mix of Latin, Caribbean and main stream "pop".
As Tessa and I milled with the crowd, I couldn't help but dance along. I was then beckoned by someone on the second bus to climb aboard, while Tessa was happy to walk alongside and mind the bags.
What a great way to greet the new year.
To let in the New Year- four times- for the Netherlands, the UK, Suriname and Guyana- was one purpose of our trip.
The official celebrations begin at mid-day. Shops and businesses are closed. There is an "estafette" or competition for the longest ribbon of firecrackers, held in the town centre.
 |
| A fire cracker being unravelled before lighting. |
After the fire crackers, the day time street party begins.
Paramaribo is packed with local people and visitors. Street vendors sell beer, soft drinks and snacks.
The local Chamber of Commerce sponsors party buses, one with a band and singers on board, the second with dancers of all ages. Shops and businesses are invited to donate to the costs. In return, the parade will pause outside the premises, and promotional goods are thrown from the buses into the crowd.
The music is a mix of Latin, Caribbean and main stream "pop".
As Tessa and I milled with the crowd, I couldn't help but dance along. I was then beckoned by someone on the second bus to climb aboard, while Tessa was happy to walk alongside and mind the bags.
What a great way to greet the new year.
New Year in Paramaribo 5
In fact Suriname is described as one of the most ethnically diverse places on earth.
In addition to the original Amerindian population- estimated at 2%- there are people of African, Indian and Indonesian (formerly Dutch East India) descent, originally brought to work as slaves, and later indentured labourers, on the plantations of Dutch Guiana. There is a distinct Maroon population, descended from those who fled slavery and established their own plantations and independence within the interior.
The names of Chinese owned businesses are distinctly visible across Paramaribo, in food, distribution, construction and manufacture.
There is a small European population, mainly Dutch.
Like Guyana, a significant proportion of Surinamese people leave the country, mainly to work in the USA, Canada and the Netherlands.
Currently the Suriname diaspora in the Netherlands, with direct origins here, numbers 0.25 million, compared with the total population of 0.43 million living in Suriname.
Since independence, the country has had a chequered history politically, with coups, including a "telephone coup", and a civil war. The current President, Desi Bouterse, former army officer and military dictator, was elected in 2010. Immune from prosecution, he still has charges to answer of involvement in killings in 1982 and was convicted of drug smuggling in the Netherlands.
This information in no way spoiled our brief tourist-style visit to the capital.
Happily, the Guyana dollar -Suriname dollar exchange rate, and the fact that the cost of living is significantly lower in Suriname- (Paramaribo is 832/950- Georgetown, Guyana is 392/950- and London is 22/950 on the Xpatulator Cost of Living Index)- meant that we could enjoy eating out in comfort, a rare treat for volunteers managing on a basic allowance.
Our accommodation in Paramaribo was offered by a local teacher, who is friends with a Dutch teacher who visits regularly. The Dutch teacher is a colleague of my volunteer friend. (This picture gives a flavour of the ethnic mix in Paramaribo.) Together, we spent a morning visiting and taking a few gifts to a charitable home for children and adults with severe and complex needs: the only place of its kind in the country, it supports 30 people and has 200 on its waiting list. Later we discussed the gap between need and provision and also the nature of the care given, which was clearly very loving and gentle, but without generous and highly qualified staffing levels, could not offer proper therapies or education which would extend and enrich the quality of life for each person.
In addition to the original Amerindian population- estimated at 2%- there are people of African, Indian and Indonesian (formerly Dutch East India) descent, originally brought to work as slaves, and later indentured labourers, on the plantations of Dutch Guiana. There is a distinct Maroon population, descended from those who fled slavery and established their own plantations and independence within the interior.
The names of Chinese owned businesses are distinctly visible across Paramaribo, in food, distribution, construction and manufacture.
There is a small European population, mainly Dutch.
Like Guyana, a significant proportion of Surinamese people leave the country, mainly to work in the USA, Canada and the Netherlands.
Currently the Suriname diaspora in the Netherlands, with direct origins here, numbers 0.25 million, compared with the total population of 0.43 million living in Suriname.
Since independence, the country has had a chequered history politically, with coups, including a "telephone coup", and a civil war. The current President, Desi Bouterse, former army officer and military dictator, was elected in 2010. Immune from prosecution, he still has charges to answer of involvement in killings in 1982 and was convicted of drug smuggling in the Netherlands.
This information in no way spoiled our brief tourist-style visit to the capital.
Happily, the Guyana dollar -Suriname dollar exchange rate, and the fact that the cost of living is significantly lower in Suriname- (Paramaribo is 832/950- Georgetown, Guyana is 392/950- and London is 22/950 on the Xpatulator Cost of Living Index)- meant that we could enjoy eating out in comfort, a rare treat for volunteers managing on a basic allowance.
Our accommodation in Paramaribo was offered by a local teacher, who is friends with a Dutch teacher who visits regularly. The Dutch teacher is a colleague of my volunteer friend. (This picture gives a flavour of the ethnic mix in Paramaribo.) Together, we spent a morning visiting and taking a few gifts to a charitable home for children and adults with severe and complex needs: the only place of its kind in the country, it supports 30 people and has 200 on its waiting list. Later we discussed the gap between need and provision and also the nature of the care given, which was clearly very loving and gentle, but without generous and highly qualified staffing levels, could not offer proper therapies or education which would extend and enrich the quality of life for each person.
New Year in Paramaribo 4
As we walked to the town centre, we passed the Jewish cemetery.
The historic Jewish settlement, Joden Savanne, was established by European Jews originally from Spain and Portugal, fleeing the Spanish Inquisition, originally cultivating plantations in Brazil, until the conquering Portuguese necessitated a further flight to Guiana. Further settlers came from Italy and Holland, and the community was assured protection of the British colonial government in 1667.
In the main part of the town stands the Synagogue-
and immediately to its left is the main mosque.
The historic Jewish settlement, Joden Savanne, was established by European Jews originally from Spain and Portugal, fleeing the Spanish Inquisition, originally cultivating plantations in Brazil, until the conquering Portuguese necessitated a further flight to Guiana. Further settlers came from Italy and Holland, and the community was assured protection of the British colonial government in 1667.
In the main part of the town stands the Synagogue-
and immediately to its left is the main mosque.
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| (photo internet) |
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